A CHANEL CRUISE

A pleasant surprise usually awaits me around this time of year when I open my iTunes. Oh yes, it’s Podcast time, and being subscribed to GQ, Details and the Upgrader (via the iTunes store) always inspires me, and my credit card for that matter. Yet recently it wasn’t Pharrell Williams’ discussion of his new custom made purple Birkin bag (with canary diamond detailing) or a store tour of the incredibly exclusive L’Eclaireur in Paris that caught my attention. No, it was something far more classic, timeless even; the latest podcast of the Chanel Cruise 2009 collection.

Like every other season, Lagerfeld’s venue of choice, the Grand Palais at the heart of Paris, was impressive as it was significant. Within the massive glass and steel structure the most revered man in fashion had recreated the façade of 31 Rue Cambon, Chanel’s flagship store. With a runway extending out from the main doors (held open by porters of course), and being serenading on rather befittingly by Talking Heads’ Our House in the Middle of the Street, the highly anticipated Spring-Summer Prêt-a-Porter collection was shown.

As always there were endless meters of chiffon and apparent references to the characteristic Chanel suit. Nevertheless, these creations are by no means to be considered as mere extensions of previous ideas seen in past collections. What ‘King’ Karl Lagerfeld has done is entirely innovative and relevant. Cropped suit-jackets, tailored to expose the waist, have been paired with pencil skirts completing a total look reminiscent of the early 60ies and Jacqueline Kennedy. Soft eggshells, pastel pinks and darker grays are predominant throughout the collection, as are the elegant hatched patterns, dual-toned color combinations and detailed textures. Chanel’s ever-charming accessories do not fail to impress. The most remarkable shoe is definitely the patent leather and plastic Mary Jane, ornamented with feathers at the heel. Interestingly, Lagerfeld has made reference to 19th century forms by completing looks with intricate black tulle headpieces, which compliment the empire waists especially on the longer, breezy summer dresses.

Essentially with this collection Lagerfeld has managed once more to utilize the basic principles set in stone by Mme Coco (and ingrained in the very history of the brand), thereby creating modern and ever-chic pieces. It appears that for Chanel the saying, ‘if it ain’t broke don’t fix it’ holds true.