Reviewing the Past: BOMBASTIC BURBERRY SS/08

Burberry, the diamond in English Fashion’s crown, has managed to reinvent itself once more. Founded in 1856, the brand has a strong military history (Burberry supplied the trench coats that were actually used in the First World War). Under the guidance of Christopher Bailey, a Royal College of Art graduate, the brand has been transformed from boring check patterns to crazily studded, incredibly textured materials.

Both the men’s and womenswear Prorsum collections are impressive, to say the least. This season’s Burberry babe is essentially a mixture of the English Rose meets punk rock chic. Each item has a specific eclectic aura, where ruffles meet shimmering fabrics embedded with ‘warrior’ studs, which draw inspiration from medieval times. The ‘Warrior Trench’ mixes the brand’s signature item with high fashion marvelously. The ‘Luxury Warrior’ bag reuses a classical shape from prior collections, yet combined with the polished brass stud detailing and alligator skin, is absolutely original. For this winter its all about the thick sock/high-heel combo, a look complemented by huge beanies and belted trenches.

Prorsum’s menswear collection outlines Burberry’s shift of focus for the modern man. Typically this man isn’t afraid to embrace a gold beaded metallic top paired with a hip belt, for instance. Notably, the collection has certain maritime qualities making Bailey's men super-sophisticated. Of particular interest is the ‘Queen’s Guard’ jacket, which truly captures the essence of the sea and maybe even Napoleon. So why not visit the brand's flagship in Kensington, or alternatively a more intimate store is located on Old Bond Street. Insiders head straight upstairs (thats where the Prorsum goodies are kept)…you won’t be disappointed.

A CHANEL CRUISE

A pleasant surprise usually awaits me around this time of year when I open my iTunes. Oh yes, it’s Podcast time, and being subscribed to GQ, Details and the Upgrader (via the iTunes store) always inspires me, and my credit card for that matter. Yet recently it wasn’t Pharrell Williams’ discussion of his new custom made purple Birkin bag (with canary diamond detailing) or a store tour of the incredibly exclusive L’Eclaireur in Paris that caught my attention. No, it was something far more classic, timeless even; the latest podcast of the Chanel Cruise 2009 collection.

Like every other season, Lagerfeld’s venue of choice, the Grand Palais at the heart of Paris, was impressive as it was significant. Within the massive glass and steel structure the most revered man in fashion had recreated the façade of 31 Rue Cambon, Chanel’s flagship store. With a runway extending out from the main doors (held open by porters of course), and being serenading on rather befittingly by Talking Heads’ Our House in the Middle of the Street, the highly anticipated Spring-Summer Prêt-a-Porter collection was shown.

As always there were endless meters of chiffon and apparent references to the characteristic Chanel suit. Nevertheless, these creations are by no means to be considered as mere extensions of previous ideas seen in past collections. What ‘King’ Karl Lagerfeld has done is entirely innovative and relevant. Cropped suit-jackets, tailored to expose the waist, have been paired with pencil skirts completing a total look reminiscent of the early 60ies and Jacqueline Kennedy. Soft eggshells, pastel pinks and darker grays are predominant throughout the collection, as are the elegant hatched patterns, dual-toned color combinations and detailed textures. Chanel’s ever-charming accessories do not fail to impress. The most remarkable shoe is definitely the patent leather and plastic Mary Jane, ornamented with feathers at the heel. Interestingly, Lagerfeld has made reference to 19th century forms by completing looks with intricate black tulle headpieces, which compliment the empire waists especially on the longer, breezy summer dresses.

Essentially with this collection Lagerfeld has managed once more to utilize the basic principles set in stone by Mme Coco (and ingrained in the very history of the brand), thereby creating modern and ever-chic pieces. It appears that for Chanel the saying, ‘if it ain’t broke don’t fix it’ holds true.

Sneaker Savvy

Stylistically speaking, diversity in shoes is remarkable. Effectively what shoe you choose has become a crucial aspect of any well-thought out ensemble. History unsurprisingly dictates that shoes have always been important to the stylish individual (think Marie-Antoinette). Not only do they protect and offer emotional and physical comfort, beautiful shoes are considered objects d’art. Their transitioning implications have ensured that now, more than ever, what you wear on your feet defines who you are. For example a beautifully fitted Tod’s loafer subtly conveys a certain jet-set eased attitude whilst a pair of chunky Prada Linea Rossa’s screams skipper on a yacht. Although these stereotypes often and conveniently prove true, what typecast exists for a reinvented, re-released 1980ies Nike high-top sneaker? Essentially none, and that’s why these shoes are so fascinating.

Importantly, when shopping for these shoes constantly bear your own wardrobe in mind. It is easy to be carried away by the stars, patterns and furry textures that ornament. Pure conviction is necessary to rock the sneaker. To avoid overkill, make your shoe act as the focal point of your outfit. Wear simple tones and shapes that lead the eye to the foot. Tucking your pants into the high top is a pre-requisite to success, as the lip of the shoe should always be on display.

One of Nike’s most impressive creations has to be the ‘Ferris Bueller’ Dunk SB (nike.com). Inspired by the leather coat worn by Matthew Broderick in Ferris Bueller’s Day Out, this shoe combines leopard print with camoflage tones to create the mother of all sneakers. Alternatively create a unique shoe with NikeID (offered in various Nike stores). This service enables you to place your initials on the high-tops, in essence complementing any monogrammed Goyard tote.

To constantly be in the know regarding sneakers, check out sneakerfreaker.com. This is the go-to website for anyone looking to update and perfect the urban-street look. Essentially the site provides information concerning which shoes to purchase in order to establish a well-rounded collection. Currently the Supra Skytops created exclusively for Chad Muska are must-haves. These electric blue sneakers (also available in yellow) combine suede and blue zebra print making for a truly bold statement. For that added bounce in your step, make sure to grill the shop assistant about future releases, or check out New Zealand’s premier street store for insider tips (loadednz.com).

To be honest, sneakers had never really interested me. It was only in Wellington (where sporting the latest New Balance gives the wearer a certain degree of street-cred) that I discovered how incredibly diverse and attention grabbing these shoes truly are. It is fair to say that in St. Andrews seeing a hot pair of high-tops is rare. This most probably has something to do with the whole English countryside-chic paradigm. So why not discard the Hunter boots and mix it up by pairing your Barbour or Belstaff wax with what can only be described as crazazy glitter Jordan’s? I’m confident you’ll discover the grass is greener.