ASPIRATIONAL FASHION

Recent events have led me to conclude that many people have no idea what fashion is, what it represents, or what it cultural foundations it upholds. Whilst the inherent superficiality that surrounds beautiful objects cannot be denied, the thought-processes and mind-set required to create and design should be recognized, and not written-off. We live in clothes; should we not therefore aspire to own beautiful clothes? I would argue that 90 percent of Vogue or V Magazine readers would never be able to own nor wear the majority of items featured within its pages. Yet the escapism high fashion and lifestyle publications induce allows many to dream, imagine and be inspired. Furthermore, it is a well-known fact that the Highstreet serves to both emulate key seasonal trends set in Milan, New York and Paris and essentially allow for mass access to otherwise unattainable style. As a fashion journalist it is far more stimulating to research and write about original (and by default designer) creations, not their Highstreet imitations. The Tribe too can offer a platform for exquisite escapism, and with this new column I hope to do just that. And what better place to start than in Paris, where a review of the quintessential collections may offer insight into what we all might aspire to wear in the near future.

As demonstrated by the Spring 2010 ready-to-wear collections, a handful of designers have boldly abandoned 80ies revival themes, which dominated past seasons. However whilst typical 80ies silhouettes are being replaced by futuristic and truly inspirational designs, their bold construction and hallmark shapes are omnipresent. Alexander McQueen and Nicholas Ghesquière lead the pack in this new back-to-the-future approach, as demonstrated in Paris. McQueen’s collection bounded through new frontiers, not only in terms of what was presented but also how it was showcased (the show was streamed live on Nick Knights website SHOWstudio.com). Footage of underwater landscapes, strange human forms and organic shapes served as the set for McQueen’s stage. As a result Atlantis, the mythical underwater city, acted as chief inspiration for the designer. What emerged were incredibly structured dresses covered in digitally re-mastered reptile and organic prints. Paired with the model’s coiled hair and nude makeup, McQueen ultimately created total-looks reminiscent of sea urchins, fossils and coral reefs. The covered, curved and crustacean-esque heels (which can only be described as impossibly innovative) added the finishing touches to McQueen’s ecological mood. Ultimately a new biologically fused woman surfaced from the unknown depths of the designer’s mind, we can only hope more inspiration can be salvaged for the future.

Over at Balenciaga a rather straightforward statement was made. Ghesquière offers an entirely urban approach for the season, a welcome contrast to the pretty cocktail dresses of many other collections. Here sleeveless leather hoodies were paired with re-worked patched denim and leather trousers. Cut-off shirts and tank-tops (crafted from chiffon and silk) with bold striped details added an upbeat athletic couture undertone to the collection. A hybrid cylindrical ankle boot cum peep-toe heel eloquently demonstrates Ghesquière’s creative and constructional ingenuity. Overall Balenciaga proposes a working solution to daywear, a practical approach to clothes with enough design aesthetic to elevate them from the mundane or regular.

It is precisely this type of elevation in everyday-wear that can serve to set any individual apart. Accessorizing with a statement tote, or incredible shoe will ultimately make any outfit standout. Finding a balance between drama and discretion is key, and aspiring to own pieces that thereby create incredible looks is vital. 3^rd Year Economics and Management student, and DONT WALK committee member Alexandra Chapman demonstrates how the everyday can become extraordinary. By adding statement pieces and interesting textures her neutral ensemble becomes an outfit that is both bold and functional. The sleeveless Zara lambs leather gilet, Miu Miu bag and buckled black Chloe boots are items that create interest to a well tailored white shirt and blue jeans ensemble. Clearly, focusing on and aspiring to own only a few designer statement pieces is key, as they serve to set you apart.

Alexandra Chapman Wears:

Lambs Leather Gilet by Zara

White Shirt by H&M

Current/Elliot Blue Jeans

Brown Belt by Ralph Lauren Collection

Black Boots by Chloe

Gray Bag by Miu Miu