Clever Kiwi Creations: New Zealand’s Debut at DON'T WALK

Although New Zealand may be ‘down under’, by no means should its fashion be considered backwards. A clear impression of the nation’s design aesthetic was made at Don’t Walk 2009. This year two incredibly diverse New Zealand designers were featured at the most fashion-focused show in town, and most certainly left their mark.

After a powerful opening, where the DJ’s blasted Justice’s killer beat ‘Planisphere’, Lower NZ (lower.co.nz) was the first New Zealand brand to make its debut at Don’t Walk. Lower NZ can only be described as the up and coming urban street-culture brand of Australasia. Inspired by the continent’s unique Hip Hop scene and the laid back lifestyle of Mt. Maunganui near Tauranga, Lower NZ prides itself on originality. In the brand’s ‘Hike’ collection, skinny distressed low rise jeans were paired with XXL t-shirts, creating total looks reminiscent of 80s urban wear. One look that was especially impressive was the ‘Mammoth’ t-shirt/jeans shirt combination, where a clear focus on layering was apparent. We can now only pray that Lower NZ globalizes its brand, as urban domination would be a real possibility.

Zambesi (zambesi.co.nz) was the second New Zealand based brand to feature at Don’t Walk. Compared to its native counterpart, Zambesi offers a completely different aesthetic and prides itself on being one of Australasia’s most established premier high-end studios. Founded in 1979, the brand represents true innovation regarding design, shape and structure. Sighting history, memory and imagination as central to its design philosophy, Zambesi essentially captures the spirit of influence and ingenuity. Essentially the looks featured most definitely transmitted the brand’s remarkable attitude. Regarding menswear, a vest made completely out of gold, silver and bronze zips conveyed Zambesi’s incredible attention to detail, whilst a khaki suit and red-fringed shirt offered an alternative twist to everyday wear that remained masculine and powerful. The most impressive women’s look was the black feathered and sequined skirt with structured shirt, expressing design ingenuity and practical imagination. Thankfully Zambesi is stocked at Elizabeth Charles in New York and Austique on the Kings Road in London; investing in any look would be wise, as these items will sustain.

FOCUS ON FASHION: FRONT ROW AT FS:09

Once again fashion show season has hit St. Andrews, and what better way to kick-off catwalk delirium than with the notorious FS:09? In its 17th year running organizers created great anticipation and hype, with a spectacle promised to be bigger and better than ever. The FS prophecy was immediately fulfilled if only by the massive tent pitched-up on Lower College Lawn (rather befitting as the theme of the show was ‘Circus’) and the huge 25 meter-long catwalk, which would put most at Milan to shame. Essentially the occasion proved to be the climactic event in FS’s academic year, a year that has been marked by numerous photoshoots and promotional campaigns.

The opening of the show definitely set the mood of the evening, as an aerial acrobat elegantly pulsated to the DJ’s beats. The models subsequently walked out wearing circus-inspired tulle collars and revealing leotards layered above stripped t-shirts. Especially impressive were the slicked-up ponytails sported by the female models, reminiscent of Balenciaga’s FW08 Ready-to-Wear Show. Paying close attention to detail seemed to be a priority as the fit and tailoring of the menswear Jaeger suits was immaculate; this in itself is quite an accomplishment. Certainly one of the most flamboyant looks of the first half was the giant feathered headpiece, which opened for the native Indian-esque themed designs that followed in the segment.

The always-pretty Luca Luca and Luella pieces proved interesting on the catwalk. Yet it was the elegant full silhouettes of the Junko Yoshioka dresses that were definitely most dramatic; the lengthy sweeping silk frames flowed effortlessly. Regarding menswear, it was a welcomed surprise to see that this year FS had scouted true design orientated brands that were obviously innovative regarding shapes and contours. A dynamic start to the second half of the show was marked by the militaristic creations of Three Cheers and a Tiger. Here powerful tailored jackets crafted out of rigid cotton in earthy greens and browns brought masculine power dressing to another level. Equally impressive were the Nikolaj d’Etoiles pieces, where breezy tailoring and sedate combinations gave onlookers tips for dressing effortlessly chic this summer. As always, Emporio Armani proved flawless. The stripped suits and the incredibly sleek, elegant total-looks proved yet again that Italian style rules supreme under any condition.

Sneaking a peek into the Platinum Ticket holder’s ‘goodie bags’ revealed such treats as Vitamin Water, Henley & Sloane socks and a whole range of Schwarzkopf hair gels. Led Zeppelin fans seemed pleased to bid on memorabilia during the auction as the signed disc sold for the respectable sum of £1400, whilst an internship at the Financial Times received heightened excitement from the crowd. The FS tradition has most definitely been upheld to the highest standard this year, as students managed to organize a professional show where real attention to fashion, design and aesthetic detail was paid.

BACKPACK ATTACK

This season Milan has shown that a dynamic fashion paradigm shift is amongst us, calling for all to retire their favorite satchels and totes for the simple backpack. Although most fashionistas would rather burn their beloved minks and join PETA’s forces than sport anything other than their prized Birkin, apparently backpacks are all the rage right now. Investigation into this phenomenon does reveal that some (emphasis on some!) backpacks are cool. Take for example Yohji Yamamoto’s Y3 line (adidas.com/campaigns/y-3/). These bags are incredibly sleek and simple. Note the green ‘Futuresport Shopper’ model, its clear-cut sophistication makes it an exceptional design piece. Of course it is impossible to hate Prada’s classic nylon models, especially those featured in the Milan S/S09 collection. The vibrant lilacs and purples combined with the soft shine of the material add a certain degree of understated elegance, perfect for travel. Yet despite the hype hold on to your messengers and speedy’s as backpacks attack lacks true occupational powers.

Reviewing the Past: BOMBASTIC BURBERRY SS/08

Burberry, the diamond in English Fashion’s crown, has managed to reinvent itself once more. Founded in 1856, the brand has a strong military history (Burberry supplied the trench coats that were actually used in the First World War). Under the guidance of Christopher Bailey, a Royal College of Art graduate, the brand has been transformed from boring check patterns to crazily studded, incredibly textured materials.

Both the men’s and womenswear Prorsum collections are impressive, to say the least. This season’s Burberry babe is essentially a mixture of the English Rose meets punk rock chic. Each item has a specific eclectic aura, where ruffles meet shimmering fabrics embedded with ‘warrior’ studs, which draw inspiration from medieval times. The ‘Warrior Trench’ mixes the brand’s signature item with high fashion marvelously. The ‘Luxury Warrior’ bag reuses a classical shape from prior collections, yet combined with the polished brass stud detailing and alligator skin, is absolutely original. For this winter its all about the thick sock/high-heel combo, a look complemented by huge beanies and belted trenches.

Prorsum’s menswear collection outlines Burberry’s shift of focus for the modern man. Typically this man isn’t afraid to embrace a gold beaded metallic top paired with a hip belt, for instance. Notably, the collection has certain maritime qualities making Bailey's men super-sophisticated. Of particular interest is the ‘Queen’s Guard’ jacket, which truly captures the essence of the sea and maybe even Napoleon. So why not visit the brand's flagship in Kensington, or alternatively a more intimate store is located on Old Bond Street. Insiders head straight upstairs (thats where the Prorsum goodies are kept)…you won’t be disappointed.

A CHANEL CRUISE

A pleasant surprise usually awaits me around this time of year when I open my iTunes. Oh yes, it’s Podcast time, and being subscribed to GQ, Details and the Upgrader (via the iTunes store) always inspires me, and my credit card for that matter. Yet recently it wasn’t Pharrell Williams’ discussion of his new custom made purple Birkin bag (with canary diamond detailing) or a store tour of the incredibly exclusive L’Eclaireur in Paris that caught my attention. No, it was something far more classic, timeless even; the latest podcast of the Chanel Cruise 2009 collection.

Like every other season, Lagerfeld’s venue of choice, the Grand Palais at the heart of Paris, was impressive as it was significant. Within the massive glass and steel structure the most revered man in fashion had recreated the façade of 31 Rue Cambon, Chanel’s flagship store. With a runway extending out from the main doors (held open by porters of course), and being serenading on rather befittingly by Talking Heads’ Our House in the Middle of the Street, the highly anticipated Spring-Summer Prêt-a-Porter collection was shown.

As always there were endless meters of chiffon and apparent references to the characteristic Chanel suit. Nevertheless, these creations are by no means to be considered as mere extensions of previous ideas seen in past collections. What ‘King’ Karl Lagerfeld has done is entirely innovative and relevant. Cropped suit-jackets, tailored to expose the waist, have been paired with pencil skirts completing a total look reminiscent of the early 60ies and Jacqueline Kennedy. Soft eggshells, pastel pinks and darker grays are predominant throughout the collection, as are the elegant hatched patterns, dual-toned color combinations and detailed textures. Chanel’s ever-charming accessories do not fail to impress. The most remarkable shoe is definitely the patent leather and plastic Mary Jane, ornamented with feathers at the heel. Interestingly, Lagerfeld has made reference to 19th century forms by completing looks with intricate black tulle headpieces, which compliment the empire waists especially on the longer, breezy summer dresses.

Essentially with this collection Lagerfeld has managed once more to utilize the basic principles set in stone by Mme Coco (and ingrained in the very history of the brand), thereby creating modern and ever-chic pieces. It appears that for Chanel the saying, ‘if it ain’t broke don’t fix it’ holds true.

Sneaker Savvy

Stylistically speaking, diversity in shoes is remarkable. Effectively what shoe you choose has become a crucial aspect of any well-thought out ensemble. History unsurprisingly dictates that shoes have always been important to the stylish individual (think Marie-Antoinette). Not only do they protect and offer emotional and physical comfort, beautiful shoes are considered objects d’art. Their transitioning implications have ensured that now, more than ever, what you wear on your feet defines who you are. For example a beautifully fitted Tod’s loafer subtly conveys a certain jet-set eased attitude whilst a pair of chunky Prada Linea Rossa’s screams skipper on a yacht. Although these stereotypes often and conveniently prove true, what typecast exists for a reinvented, re-released 1980ies Nike high-top sneaker? Essentially none, and that’s why these shoes are so fascinating.

Importantly, when shopping for these shoes constantly bear your own wardrobe in mind. It is easy to be carried away by the stars, patterns and furry textures that ornament. Pure conviction is necessary to rock the sneaker. To avoid overkill, make your shoe act as the focal point of your outfit. Wear simple tones and shapes that lead the eye to the foot. Tucking your pants into the high top is a pre-requisite to success, as the lip of the shoe should always be on display.

One of Nike’s most impressive creations has to be the ‘Ferris Bueller’ Dunk SB (nike.com). Inspired by the leather coat worn by Matthew Broderick in Ferris Bueller’s Day Out, this shoe combines leopard print with camoflage tones to create the mother of all sneakers. Alternatively create a unique shoe with NikeID (offered in various Nike stores). This service enables you to place your initials on the high-tops, in essence complementing any monogrammed Goyard tote.

To constantly be in the know regarding sneakers, check out sneakerfreaker.com. This is the go-to website for anyone looking to update and perfect the urban-street look. Essentially the site provides information concerning which shoes to purchase in order to establish a well-rounded collection. Currently the Supra Skytops created exclusively for Chad Muska are must-haves. These electric blue sneakers (also available in yellow) combine suede and blue zebra print making for a truly bold statement. For that added bounce in your step, make sure to grill the shop assistant about future releases, or check out New Zealand’s premier street store for insider tips (loadednz.com).

To be honest, sneakers had never really interested me. It was only in Wellington (where sporting the latest New Balance gives the wearer a certain degree of street-cred) that I discovered how incredibly diverse and attention grabbing these shoes truly are. It is fair to say that in St. Andrews seeing a hot pair of high-tops is rare. This most probably has something to do with the whole English countryside-chic paradigm. So why not discard the Hunter boots and mix it up by pairing your Barbour or Belstaff wax with what can only be described as crazazy glitter Jordan’s? I’m confident you’ll discover the grass is greener.

PRADA YADA DADA!

When I’m asked who is my favorite designer, I immediately reply Miucchia Prada. And why? Well that’s simple. The ‘Gallerie Vittorio Emmanuelle’ based company produces the most exclusive and innovative designs season after season. Prada’s leather-goods, ready-to-wear collections and shoes (perhaps most important!) become the must have items on every ‘it-list’.

Fratelli Prada was founded in 1913 by Mario Prada and is now spearheaded by granddaughter Miucchia. Acting as the visionary force behind Italian fashion, she somehow manages to encapsulate the spirit of Milan design like no other. This ever-present ingenuity and ability to embody the needs of the modern woman/man has led to consistent rave reviews from every fashion editor including the highly analytical Anna Wintour.

Consistently evolving, the recent SS08 collection entitled “Trembled Blossoms” is a far cry from the neo-fascist-chic inspired uniforms of the early 2000s. Or, for that matter, the persistent, simple and durable black-nylon luggage trend for which Prada is famed. “Trembled Blossoms” is accompanied by music from Cocorosie and should be viewed in conjunction with the fascinating wallpaper designs of Damien Hirst in NYC (prada.com).

Ever I.T. conscience, Prada has exclusively featured an eerie animation for the collection. In it designs and prints seem fantastical. Birds suck nectar from massive flowers, pixies and nymphs model incredibly designed patterns and stencils. Most impressive are the botanical creatures that serve as inspiration for what can only be described as a heel like no other. The bold color combinations, curved lines and impressive construction are easily identifiable with the height of art deco (think Tiffany lamp). Loose pantsuits and day dresses reminiscent of 60s shapes are tied together by geometric patterns and accentuated color lines. Noticeably, heels are worn with heavily patterned stockings, giving a clash of color rarely seen on the runway. This amalgamation of art nouveau, nymph nostalgia and 60s reformation was totally unpredictable, which is why it works.

The menswear collection focused more on masculine emotion. Suits appear less tailored although impeccably so. Paired with pastel pixilated dress shirts the look reflects the shrubs of Miucchia’s mystical fashion forest. The shortened trouser leg has been replaced with a delicate 60s flare, and wrists decorated with thick leather bands simultaneously serve as watches. The sandal under pants trend ruled supreme yet not in an awkward way. Note to successfully latch into this trend the sandal must cover up large proportions of the foot, to give the illusion of a shoe.

So once again Prada theory has been proven. Only this time we all are offered the chance to don 60s shapes and enchanted prints. Apparently Flower Power is as potent as ever.