BACKPACK ATTACK

This season Milan has shown that a dynamic fashion paradigm shift is amongst us, calling for all to retire their favorite satchels and totes for the simple backpack. Although most fashionistas would rather burn their beloved minks and join PETA’s forces than sport anything other than their prized Birkin, apparently backpacks are all the rage right now. Investigation into this phenomenon does reveal that some (emphasis on some!) backpacks are cool. Take for example Yohji Yamamoto’s Y3 line (adidas.com/campaigns/y-3/). These bags are incredibly sleek and simple. Note the green ‘Futuresport Shopper’ model, its clear-cut sophistication makes it an exceptional design piece. Of course it is impossible to hate Prada’s classic nylon models, especially those featured in the Milan S/S09 collection. The vibrant lilacs and purples combined with the soft shine of the material add a certain degree of understated elegance, perfect for travel. Yet despite the hype hold on to your messengers and speedy’s as backpacks attack lacks true occupational powers.

Reviewing the Past: BOMBASTIC BURBERRY SS/08

Burberry, the diamond in English Fashion’s crown, has managed to reinvent itself once more. Founded in 1856, the brand has a strong military history (Burberry supplied the trench coats that were actually used in the First World War). Under the guidance of Christopher Bailey, a Royal College of Art graduate, the brand has been transformed from boring check patterns to crazily studded, incredibly textured materials.

Both the men’s and womenswear Prorsum collections are impressive, to say the least. This season’s Burberry babe is essentially a mixture of the English Rose meets punk rock chic. Each item has a specific eclectic aura, where ruffles meet shimmering fabrics embedded with ‘warrior’ studs, which draw inspiration from medieval times. The ‘Warrior Trench’ mixes the brand’s signature item with high fashion marvelously. The ‘Luxury Warrior’ bag reuses a classical shape from prior collections, yet combined with the polished brass stud detailing and alligator skin, is absolutely original. For this winter its all about the thick sock/high-heel combo, a look complemented by huge beanies and belted trenches.

Prorsum’s menswear collection outlines Burberry’s shift of focus for the modern man. Typically this man isn’t afraid to embrace a gold beaded metallic top paired with a hip belt, for instance. Notably, the collection has certain maritime qualities making Bailey's men super-sophisticated. Of particular interest is the ‘Queen’s Guard’ jacket, which truly captures the essence of the sea and maybe even Napoleon. So why not visit the brand's flagship in Kensington, or alternatively a more intimate store is located on Old Bond Street. Insiders head straight upstairs (thats where the Prorsum goodies are kept)…you won’t be disappointed.

A CHANEL CRUISE

A pleasant surprise usually awaits me around this time of year when I open my iTunes. Oh yes, it’s Podcast time, and being subscribed to GQ, Details and the Upgrader (via the iTunes store) always inspires me, and my credit card for that matter. Yet recently it wasn’t Pharrell Williams’ discussion of his new custom made purple Birkin bag (with canary diamond detailing) or a store tour of the incredibly exclusive L’Eclaireur in Paris that caught my attention. No, it was something far more classic, timeless even; the latest podcast of the Chanel Cruise 2009 collection.

Like every other season, Lagerfeld’s venue of choice, the Grand Palais at the heart of Paris, was impressive as it was significant. Within the massive glass and steel structure the most revered man in fashion had recreated the façade of 31 Rue Cambon, Chanel’s flagship store. With a runway extending out from the main doors (held open by porters of course), and being serenading on rather befittingly by Talking Heads’ Our House in the Middle of the Street, the highly anticipated Spring-Summer Prêt-a-Porter collection was shown.

As always there were endless meters of chiffon and apparent references to the characteristic Chanel suit. Nevertheless, these creations are by no means to be considered as mere extensions of previous ideas seen in past collections. What ‘King’ Karl Lagerfeld has done is entirely innovative and relevant. Cropped suit-jackets, tailored to expose the waist, have been paired with pencil skirts completing a total look reminiscent of the early 60ies and Jacqueline Kennedy. Soft eggshells, pastel pinks and darker grays are predominant throughout the collection, as are the elegant hatched patterns, dual-toned color combinations and detailed textures. Chanel’s ever-charming accessories do not fail to impress. The most remarkable shoe is definitely the patent leather and plastic Mary Jane, ornamented with feathers at the heel. Interestingly, Lagerfeld has made reference to 19th century forms by completing looks with intricate black tulle headpieces, which compliment the empire waists especially on the longer, breezy summer dresses.

Essentially with this collection Lagerfeld has managed once more to utilize the basic principles set in stone by Mme Coco (and ingrained in the very history of the brand), thereby creating modern and ever-chic pieces. It appears that for Chanel the saying, ‘if it ain’t broke don’t fix it’ holds true.

Sneaker Savvy

Stylistically speaking, diversity in shoes is remarkable. Effectively what shoe you choose has become a crucial aspect of any well-thought out ensemble. History unsurprisingly dictates that shoes have always been important to the stylish individual (think Marie-Antoinette). Not only do they protect and offer emotional and physical comfort, beautiful shoes are considered objects d’art. Their transitioning implications have ensured that now, more than ever, what you wear on your feet defines who you are. For example a beautifully fitted Tod’s loafer subtly conveys a certain jet-set eased attitude whilst a pair of chunky Prada Linea Rossa’s screams skipper on a yacht. Although these stereotypes often and conveniently prove true, what typecast exists for a reinvented, re-released 1980ies Nike high-top sneaker? Essentially none, and that’s why these shoes are so fascinating.

Importantly, when shopping for these shoes constantly bear your own wardrobe in mind. It is easy to be carried away by the stars, patterns and furry textures that ornament. Pure conviction is necessary to rock the sneaker. To avoid overkill, make your shoe act as the focal point of your outfit. Wear simple tones and shapes that lead the eye to the foot. Tucking your pants into the high top is a pre-requisite to success, as the lip of the shoe should always be on display.

One of Nike’s most impressive creations has to be the ‘Ferris Bueller’ Dunk SB (nike.com). Inspired by the leather coat worn by Matthew Broderick in Ferris Bueller’s Day Out, this shoe combines leopard print with camoflage tones to create the mother of all sneakers. Alternatively create a unique shoe with NikeID (offered in various Nike stores). This service enables you to place your initials on the high-tops, in essence complementing any monogrammed Goyard tote.

To constantly be in the know regarding sneakers, check out sneakerfreaker.com. This is the go-to website for anyone looking to update and perfect the urban-street look. Essentially the site provides information concerning which shoes to purchase in order to establish a well-rounded collection. Currently the Supra Skytops created exclusively for Chad Muska are must-haves. These electric blue sneakers (also available in yellow) combine suede and blue zebra print making for a truly bold statement. For that added bounce in your step, make sure to grill the shop assistant about future releases, or check out New Zealand’s premier street store for insider tips (loadednz.com).

To be honest, sneakers had never really interested me. It was only in Wellington (where sporting the latest New Balance gives the wearer a certain degree of street-cred) that I discovered how incredibly diverse and attention grabbing these shoes truly are. It is fair to say that in St. Andrews seeing a hot pair of high-tops is rare. This most probably has something to do with the whole English countryside-chic paradigm. So why not discard the Hunter boots and mix it up by pairing your Barbour or Belstaff wax with what can only be described as crazazy glitter Jordan’s? I’m confident you’ll discover the grass is greener.

PRADA YADA DADA!

When I’m asked who is my favorite designer, I immediately reply Miucchia Prada. And why? Well that’s simple. The ‘Gallerie Vittorio Emmanuelle’ based company produces the most exclusive and innovative designs season after season. Prada’s leather-goods, ready-to-wear collections and shoes (perhaps most important!) become the must have items on every ‘it-list’.

Fratelli Prada was founded in 1913 by Mario Prada and is now spearheaded by granddaughter Miucchia. Acting as the visionary force behind Italian fashion, she somehow manages to encapsulate the spirit of Milan design like no other. This ever-present ingenuity and ability to embody the needs of the modern woman/man has led to consistent rave reviews from every fashion editor including the highly analytical Anna Wintour.

Consistently evolving, the recent SS08 collection entitled “Trembled Blossoms” is a far cry from the neo-fascist-chic inspired uniforms of the early 2000s. Or, for that matter, the persistent, simple and durable black-nylon luggage trend for which Prada is famed. “Trembled Blossoms” is accompanied by music from Cocorosie and should be viewed in conjunction with the fascinating wallpaper designs of Damien Hirst in NYC (prada.com).

Ever I.T. conscience, Prada has exclusively featured an eerie animation for the collection. In it designs and prints seem fantastical. Birds suck nectar from massive flowers, pixies and nymphs model incredibly designed patterns and stencils. Most impressive are the botanical creatures that serve as inspiration for what can only be described as a heel like no other. The bold color combinations, curved lines and impressive construction are easily identifiable with the height of art deco (think Tiffany lamp). Loose pantsuits and day dresses reminiscent of 60s shapes are tied together by geometric patterns and accentuated color lines. Noticeably, heels are worn with heavily patterned stockings, giving a clash of color rarely seen on the runway. This amalgamation of art nouveau, nymph nostalgia and 60s reformation was totally unpredictable, which is why it works.

The menswear collection focused more on masculine emotion. Suits appear less tailored although impeccably so. Paired with pastel pixilated dress shirts the look reflects the shrubs of Miucchia’s mystical fashion forest. The shortened trouser leg has been replaced with a delicate 60s flare, and wrists decorated with thick leather bands simultaneously serve as watches. The sandal under pants trend ruled supreme yet not in an awkward way. Note to successfully latch into this trend the sandal must cover up large proportions of the foot, to give the illusion of a shoe.

So once again Prada theory has been proven. Only this time we all are offered the chance to don 60s shapes and enchanted prints. Apparently Flower Power is as potent as ever.

Gear for Gstaad

As winter falls (literally) upon us, it seems there is no better time than now to address what to wear on and around the slopes. Preparations to go skiing can be daunting enough especially for the fashion-forward. So how should one suit up for slalom and what attire goes with après-ski? Thankfully, there are many diverse options.

To avoid channeling the Michelin Man make sure to purchase a Moncler down coat. With their Autumn/Winter 2009 collection the French alpine brand has crafted über-stylish glossy jackets that are fitted, elegant and surprisingly insulating. The men’s ‘Himalaya’ model is incredibly smart, versatile and available in various vibrant shades. Importantly check out the women’s ‘Virginia’ model at moncler.it. Here the durable black outer shell is quilted (not unlike a Chanel Caviar bag) whilst the billowing silver fur collar refines the look, essentially making it the coat of the season. If you plan to take the plunge and want to ski in Moncler ‘total look’, match your polished coat with the ‘Duvet’ pants. For a more sporty option, combine RLX’s ‘Camo Instructor’ pants and ‘Frontier’ jacket (at ralphlauren.com) with Prada goggles. Either way you will certainly be a shining point on the piste.

Naturally it is pivotal to choose a sophisticated location with fresh daily powder and illustrious après-ski. Gstaad certainly fits the bill as one of the most exclusive resorts on the planet (alongside Megève and Aspen) and has become a Mecca for fashionistas on skis. Stay at the world famous Gstaad Palace (palace.ch) and party at the hotel’s in-house exclusive nightclub GreenGo, a celebrity magnate. Alternatively unwind and eat at Chlösterli on the main road into town. The ambience within the 300-year-old chalet is remarkable, especially since its redecoration by the notable Parisian designer Patrick Jouin. At the restaurant make sure to try some of the traditional Swiss alpine dishes that have been handled with an exceptional modern touch.

It is imperative to remember to unwind, relax and enjoy what Gstaad has to offer. On your all-important day off make sure to grace the Gstaad Promenade, the perfect venue for Dior’s resplendent natural mink knee-length belted fur. Who said keeping warm can’t be fun?

A Missoni Mission

If you’re after quality in design, mesmerizing color combinations and exclusive patterns in the form of prêt-a-porter knits, the Milan-based family-run Fashion Empire of Missoni holds all the answers. This exclusive House, founded by Ottavio and Rosita Missoni, traces its roots to Olympian tracksuit making. Spanning three generations of designers, and with the glamorous twenty-four year old Margherita Missoni set to catapult the family business into a new dimension of the fashion stratosphere, it is clear that this brand will remain a pioneer of style.

Emphasis on breathtaking striped combinations, coming to life in the form of prints and knits, remain as relevant to fashion as in 1953, the year Missoni revealed its first collection at La Rinascente in Milan. Every season a new collection of luxurious dresses, cardigans, neckties, scarves and immensely popular beanies leave onlookers tantalized by an orgy of color and texture, demonstrating pure creative genius and downright originality. The wide range of hats, scarves and gloves make wrapping-up in winter stylish, and therefore most relevant to St. Andrews. So how does the fashionable student wear his or her latest purchase? With pride, passion and confidence as any Missoni item, when paired with simple tones, can readily convey a most capable fashion sense. At Missoni boutiques instruction as to how a garment should be worn is given upon purchase. For future reference then: a knitted hat should be worn at a slant so that only the left ear is covered while Missoni ‘Sciarpe’ should be draped in a naturally flowing manner around the neck.

The fascinating prints and striking colors never clash but mystically harmonize, a reality that perplexes me to such an extent that I find myself making comparisons to Missoni when browsing through any department store. What sets this brand apart is its ability to ooze a cool, collected recognizable ‘Missoni’ look, a look that has been fostered through amazing heritage and has proven capable of transcending the ever-evolving world of fashion. When Missoni described the winter collection as a ‘hypothetical Contemporary Art exhibition’ I thought I could smell pretense. Then I saw…and was amazed.