ASPIRATIONAL FASHION

Recent events have led me to conclude that many people have no idea what fashion is, what it represents, or what it cultural foundations it upholds. Whilst the inherent superficiality that surrounds beautiful objects cannot be denied, the thought-processes and mind-set required to create and design should be recognized, and not written-off. We live in clothes; should we not therefore aspire to own beautiful clothes? I would argue that 90 percent of Vogue or V Magazine readers would never be able to own nor wear the majority of items featured within its pages. Yet the escapism high fashion and lifestyle publications induce allows many to dream, imagine and be inspired. Furthermore, it is a well-known fact that the Highstreet serves to both emulate key seasonal trends set in Milan, New York and Paris and essentially allow for mass access to otherwise unattainable style. As a fashion journalist it is far more stimulating to research and write about original (and by default designer) creations, not their Highstreet imitations. The Tribe too can offer a platform for exquisite escapism, and with this new column I hope to do just that. And what better place to start than in Paris, where a review of the quintessential collections may offer insight into what we all might aspire to wear in the near future.

As demonstrated by the Spring 2010 ready-to-wear collections, a handful of designers have boldly abandoned 80ies revival themes, which dominated past seasons. However whilst typical 80ies silhouettes are being replaced by futuristic and truly inspirational designs, their bold construction and hallmark shapes are omnipresent. Alexander McQueen and Nicholas Ghesquière lead the pack in this new back-to-the-future approach, as demonstrated in Paris. McQueen’s collection bounded through new frontiers, not only in terms of what was presented but also how it was showcased (the show was streamed live on Nick Knights website SHOWstudio.com). Footage of underwater landscapes, strange human forms and organic shapes served as the set for McQueen’s stage. As a result Atlantis, the mythical underwater city, acted as chief inspiration for the designer. What emerged were incredibly structured dresses covered in digitally re-mastered reptile and organic prints. Paired with the model’s coiled hair and nude makeup, McQueen ultimately created total-looks reminiscent of sea urchins, fossils and coral reefs. The covered, curved and crustacean-esque heels (which can only be described as impossibly innovative) added the finishing touches to McQueen’s ecological mood. Ultimately a new biologically fused woman surfaced from the unknown depths of the designer’s mind, we can only hope more inspiration can be salvaged for the future.

Over at Balenciaga a rather straightforward statement was made. Ghesquière offers an entirely urban approach for the season, a welcome contrast to the pretty cocktail dresses of many other collections. Here sleeveless leather hoodies were paired with re-worked patched denim and leather trousers. Cut-off shirts and tank-tops (crafted from chiffon and silk) with bold striped details added an upbeat athletic couture undertone to the collection. A hybrid cylindrical ankle boot cum peep-toe heel eloquently demonstrates Ghesquière’s creative and constructional ingenuity. Overall Balenciaga proposes a working solution to daywear, a practical approach to clothes with enough design aesthetic to elevate them from the mundane or regular.

It is precisely this type of elevation in everyday-wear that can serve to set any individual apart. Accessorizing with a statement tote, or incredible shoe will ultimately make any outfit standout. Finding a balance between drama and discretion is key, and aspiring to own pieces that thereby create incredible looks is vital. 3^rd Year Economics and Management student, and DONT WALK committee member Alexandra Chapman demonstrates how the everyday can become extraordinary. By adding statement pieces and interesting textures her neutral ensemble becomes an outfit that is both bold and functional. The sleeveless Zara lambs leather gilet, Miu Miu bag and buckled black Chloe boots are items that create interest to a well tailored white shirt and blue jeans ensemble. Clearly, focusing on and aspiring to own only a few designer statement pieces is key, as they serve to set you apart.

Alexandra Chapman Wears:

Lambs Leather Gilet by Zara

White Shirt by H&M

Current/Elliot Blue Jeans

Brown Belt by Ralph Lauren Collection

Black Boots by Chloe

Gray Bag by Miu Miu

Dressing for cold weather conditions is a challenge, especially when all four seasons eventuate on any given day. How can we ever hope to look stylish and keep reasonably warm in anything apart from a Moncler duvet? Well, it seems that fur is the only plausible solution. Classic, flexible and comfortable, fur is elegant, luxurious and chic. Any mink can be considered an investment piece, an heirloom that can be cherished and altered generation after generation. We need not look further than to our own Saintly Style Spy student than to see how fur is applicable to people of all ages and styles. Some brands in particular offer amazing designs. Check out J.Mendel’s (jmendel.com) dark vison vest, which can be worn with anything from a classic crew-neck to a cool printed tee. Remember fur requires confidence.

Focus on Elizabeth Fauconnier-Bank

Elizabeth Fauconnier-Bank is a 4rth year Modern History and
IR student, as well as a columnist for The Saint.

She wears:
Jack Wills blouse
New Look leggings
Primark Gladiator heels
Chloe Paddington bag
Mink Coat tailor made for her Grandmother

What fashion items do you aspire to own?
Classic items that I'll wear for decades: Christian Louboutin nude patent leather heels, a Chanel black 2.55 bag, and a Burberry stone trench. Plus an outrageous Oscar de la Renta dress.

Focus on Camille Labat

Camille Labat is a 4rth year IR and Management student.
She is also a member of the DONT WALK creative team.

She wears:
Acne Blouse
Alexander Wang studded jacket
J Brand jeans
YSL Tribute pumps
Urban Outfitters bow
Vintage Chanel trim bracelet made by Camille K Jewels

What fashion items do you aspire to own?
A YSL pantsuit, a Cartier panther ring, a light grey croc
Birkin and a Balmain leather jacket.

Our Trendy Town: Happy Hunting

Do not despair for our charming town has much to offer besides history and academia. Touring the streets of St. Andrews reveals great fashion finds. This map marks areas of interest, why not scour the streets and discover St. Andrews’ best kept secrets. Remember X marks the spot…

Hunter Wellington’s:
Female students take note, this is one type of rubber you want - strictly as part your rainy day uniform though.

Sunny St. Andrews?
Believe it or not some days truly are glorious. Avoid premature botox and wear sunglasses. Why not a good pair of Ray-Ban Wayfarers? The frames may be old but surely are classic.

Melegrano’s:
In dire need of Missoni? This boutique stocks it ergo you should buy it.


Mappin’ and Webb at the Old Course Hotel Resort and Spa:
All that glitters is golden, or platinum for that matter. While browsing through a selection of Mont Blanc’s why not join the Kohler Spa. And who said multitasking was hard?

Farmore Interiors:
Did you just wake-up and hate everything? Me too. That’s why furniture stores like this one exist. Careful you might just make yourself at home. PS. we love the goldfish.

Senisble Shopping

Apparently this winter will be one of the coldest ever, so what better time to invest in layers of cashmere, merino, mink and python? These luxurious materials are warm, durable and exquisite, and have conveniently been used by designers for the upcoming Fall/Winter and pre-collections.

As a columnist for Style it is my duty to discuss key trends, brands and coveted items. Yet in the credit crunch’s climate justifying an £11,000 Cartier watch when your Swatch adequately keeps the time is a challenge. Although you may not think buying expensive clothes and accessories is wise, certain costly purchases should be regarded as investments. True buying power it seems lies in quality and sustainability, not in trends.
Granted, it remains painfully obvious that we are still in the midst of a global recession, now is the essential time to invest. In these trying economic times financial experts continue to advise us to guard our gold and to invest when the price is right. Yet surely these ‘investments’ can move beyond the realms of real estate and into ready-to-wear?

Here is a crucial piece of advice: take part in various department stores’ 70 percent-off sales whilst they last, because when the flailing economy finally does recover you will continue to reap-in the benefits of the best bargains you ever bagged. Buying pieces that are effortlessly chic and timeless is a mission, a mission that if fulfilled is incredibly rewarding. So in your new crusade for couture know that longevity in fashion terms essentially means ditching the trendy-ness of the highstreet for solid design pieces that most often hail from the major fashion houses. Yet keep a keen and conscious eye out for quality, and importantly do not adopt a nouveau attitude by being lured solely by big names.


Why not visit one of the many local shops in St. Andrews that sell beautifully crafted top quality cashmere and merino scarves, sweaters and even socks. Johnstons (on 4 Pilmour Links) offers a wide range of throws and knitwear in a pleasing array of soft pastel tones. Their attractive cream cashmere polo neck (£135 johnstonscashmere.com) is the epitome of understated elegance and can be easily paired with a classic Burberry Prorsum double breasted navy blazer, surely a staple in any gentleman’s wardrobe. Visiting The Old Course Golf Shop on the Links is definitely worthwhile as most stock (ranging from Mulberry, Brics and Ralph Lauren) is classic and comfortable. In terms of neckwear, look out for Burberry’s selection of luxurious billowing cashmere snoods (£175 uk.burberry.com). These unisex round scarves create the perfect shape without hassle, and can easily transcend trends. Regarding outerwear key colors for this winter are shades of grey, charcoal and black. Conveniently these colors are classic and can be recycled season after season, ensuring that they become strong investment pieces. Pringle offers a great selection of women’s coats, notably the classic ‘Herringbone Pea Coat’ (£1,095 net-a-porter.com). This type of coat is instantly modernized and made youthful if paired with a leather miniskirt for instance.

My message is clear; hunt for ageless pieces with a few unique design elements to add interest. Hoarding from Primark will only cost you more money in the long run. The wise shopper chooses only a few key pieces each season thereby progressively building a wardrobe with sturdy foundations.

Pastel Bouquet

Spring/summer seems to have finally emerged from the usual rainy cold days that we have become so accustomed to. Befittingly and as the Highstreet dictates florals are hot, yet surely summer chic can be achieved without looking like a poppy garden. At any rate avoiding Laura Ashley (unless you are wallpaper-shopping is good advice), except if you are counseling annoying flat-mates. This season should be all about light breezy layers, try combining simple linens with neutral pastels to achieve effortless style. Essentially simple pastel color combinations, creams and whites will accentuate form. Become the petal; bloom into beautiful layers of immaculately cut cardigans, shirts and uncomplicated tunics.

Compliment any breezy look with powerful accessories, in effect making these the focus points of an otherwise neutral outfit. Wearing House of Harlow’s ‘Black Gladiator Cuff’ (shopkitson.com) will give a rough edge to any layered feminine look. Alternatively Chanel’s white J12 watch is perfect for this summer season, its strong structure and design aesthetic will provide for an interesting contrast between stark forms and airy layers. Bottega Veneta’s (style.com) S/S 09 womens collection offers exceptional foundations for building a neutral layered combination. In particular Bottega’s earth-beige tulip-cut shift dress expresses organic shapes, yet avoids the busyness of a floral print, perfect as a basis for outfit cultivation. Stella McCartney’s take on summer style remains simplistic and incredibly elegant. Colors remain strictly tonal and luxurious materials are combined to add shine and subdued shifts in shade. McCartney’s cropped trouser and 80ies power blazer combination offers exquisite tailoring and is versatile especially for refined summer encounters.

Summer menswear has also been transformed; shorts have sprouted into cropped trousers whilst certain colors seem to be in full bloom. Take for instance Michael Kors’ royal blue blazer and white pant look. The shortened trousers put the shoes in the spotlight, ergo they should be stage-ready. Whilst Kors has opted for basic white plimsoles, this style of trouser necessitates Tod’s delicately crafted loafer. Whilst these loafers are not durable, they are versatile and offer understated masculine elegance (tods.com). Continental style moves away from jet-set influences, for a more clinical approach. Paul Helbers’ studio over at Louis Vuitton best exemplifies the monochromatic look whilst simultaneously transforming the average sandal into a truly gladiator shape, perfect for any Roman holiday or romantic conquest.