Clever Kiwi Creations: New Zealand’s Debut at DON'T WALK

Although New Zealand may be ‘down under’, by no means should its fashion be considered backwards. A clear impression of the nation’s design aesthetic was made at Don’t Walk 2009. This year two incredibly diverse New Zealand designers were featured at the most fashion-focused show in town, and most certainly left their mark.

After a powerful opening, where the DJ’s blasted Justice’s killer beat ‘Planisphere’, Lower NZ (lower.co.nz) was the first New Zealand brand to make its debut at Don’t Walk. Lower NZ can only be described as the up and coming urban street-culture brand of Australasia. Inspired by the continent’s unique Hip Hop scene and the laid back lifestyle of Mt. Maunganui near Tauranga, Lower NZ prides itself on originality. In the brand’s ‘Hike’ collection, skinny distressed low rise jeans were paired with XXL t-shirts, creating total looks reminiscent of 80s urban wear. One look that was especially impressive was the ‘Mammoth’ t-shirt/jeans shirt combination, where a clear focus on layering was apparent. We can now only pray that Lower NZ globalizes its brand, as urban domination would be a real possibility.

Zambesi (zambesi.co.nz) was the second New Zealand based brand to feature at Don’t Walk. Compared to its native counterpart, Zambesi offers a completely different aesthetic and prides itself on being one of Australasia’s most established premier high-end studios. Founded in 1979, the brand represents true innovation regarding design, shape and structure. Sighting history, memory and imagination as central to its design philosophy, Zambesi essentially captures the spirit of influence and ingenuity. Essentially the looks featured most definitely transmitted the brand’s remarkable attitude. Regarding menswear, a vest made completely out of gold, silver and bronze zips conveyed Zambesi’s incredible attention to detail, whilst a khaki suit and red-fringed shirt offered an alternative twist to everyday wear that remained masculine and powerful. The most impressive women’s look was the black feathered and sequined skirt with structured shirt, expressing design ingenuity and practical imagination. Thankfully Zambesi is stocked at Elizabeth Charles in New York and Austique on the Kings Road in London; investing in any look would be wise, as these items will sustain.

FOCUS ON FASHION: FRONT ROW AT FS:09

Once again fashion show season has hit St. Andrews, and what better way to kick-off catwalk delirium than with the notorious FS:09? In its 17th year running organizers created great anticipation and hype, with a spectacle promised to be bigger and better than ever. The FS prophecy was immediately fulfilled if only by the massive tent pitched-up on Lower College Lawn (rather befitting as the theme of the show was ‘Circus’) and the huge 25 meter-long catwalk, which would put most at Milan to shame. Essentially the occasion proved to be the climactic event in FS’s academic year, a year that has been marked by numerous photoshoots and promotional campaigns.

The opening of the show definitely set the mood of the evening, as an aerial acrobat elegantly pulsated to the DJ’s beats. The models subsequently walked out wearing circus-inspired tulle collars and revealing leotards layered above stripped t-shirts. Especially impressive were the slicked-up ponytails sported by the female models, reminiscent of Balenciaga’s FW08 Ready-to-Wear Show. Paying close attention to detail seemed to be a priority as the fit and tailoring of the menswear Jaeger suits was immaculate; this in itself is quite an accomplishment. Certainly one of the most flamboyant looks of the first half was the giant feathered headpiece, which opened for the native Indian-esque themed designs that followed in the segment.

The always-pretty Luca Luca and Luella pieces proved interesting on the catwalk. Yet it was the elegant full silhouettes of the Junko Yoshioka dresses that were definitely most dramatic; the lengthy sweeping silk frames flowed effortlessly. Regarding menswear, it was a welcomed surprise to see that this year FS had scouted true design orientated brands that were obviously innovative regarding shapes and contours. A dynamic start to the second half of the show was marked by the militaristic creations of Three Cheers and a Tiger. Here powerful tailored jackets crafted out of rigid cotton in earthy greens and browns brought masculine power dressing to another level. Equally impressive were the Nikolaj d’Etoiles pieces, where breezy tailoring and sedate combinations gave onlookers tips for dressing effortlessly chic this summer. As always, Emporio Armani proved flawless. The stripped suits and the incredibly sleek, elegant total-looks proved yet again that Italian style rules supreme under any condition.

Sneaking a peek into the Platinum Ticket holder’s ‘goodie bags’ revealed such treats as Vitamin Water, Henley & Sloane socks and a whole range of Schwarzkopf hair gels. Led Zeppelin fans seemed pleased to bid on memorabilia during the auction as the signed disc sold for the respectable sum of £1400, whilst an internship at the Financial Times received heightened excitement from the crowd. The FS tradition has most definitely been upheld to the highest standard this year, as students managed to organize a professional show where real attention to fashion, design and aesthetic detail was paid.