PRADA YADA DADA!

When I’m asked who is my favorite designer, I immediately reply Miucchia Prada. And why? Well that’s simple. The ‘Gallerie Vittorio Emmanuelle’ based company produces the most exclusive and innovative designs season after season. Prada’s leather-goods, ready-to-wear collections and shoes (perhaps most important!) become the must have items on every ‘it-list’.

Fratelli Prada was founded in 1913 by Mario Prada and is now spearheaded by granddaughter Miucchia. Acting as the visionary force behind Italian fashion, she somehow manages to encapsulate the spirit of Milan design like no other. This ever-present ingenuity and ability to embody the needs of the modern woman/man has led to consistent rave reviews from every fashion editor including the highly analytical Anna Wintour.

Consistently evolving, the recent SS08 collection entitled “Trembled Blossoms” is a far cry from the neo-fascist-chic inspired uniforms of the early 2000s. Or, for that matter, the persistent, simple and durable black-nylon luggage trend for which Prada is famed. “Trembled Blossoms” is accompanied by music from Cocorosie and should be viewed in conjunction with the fascinating wallpaper designs of Damien Hirst in NYC (prada.com).

Ever I.T. conscience, Prada has exclusively featured an eerie animation for the collection. In it designs and prints seem fantastical. Birds suck nectar from massive flowers, pixies and nymphs model incredibly designed patterns and stencils. Most impressive are the botanical creatures that serve as inspiration for what can only be described as a heel like no other. The bold color combinations, curved lines and impressive construction are easily identifiable with the height of art deco (think Tiffany lamp). Loose pantsuits and day dresses reminiscent of 60s shapes are tied together by geometric patterns and accentuated color lines. Noticeably, heels are worn with heavily patterned stockings, giving a clash of color rarely seen on the runway. This amalgamation of art nouveau, nymph nostalgia and 60s reformation was totally unpredictable, which is why it works.

The menswear collection focused more on masculine emotion. Suits appear less tailored although impeccably so. Paired with pastel pixilated dress shirts the look reflects the shrubs of Miucchia’s mystical fashion forest. The shortened trouser leg has been replaced with a delicate 60s flare, and wrists decorated with thick leather bands simultaneously serve as watches. The sandal under pants trend ruled supreme yet not in an awkward way. Note to successfully latch into this trend the sandal must cover up large proportions of the foot, to give the illusion of a shoe.

So once again Prada theory has been proven. Only this time we all are offered the chance to don 60s shapes and enchanted prints. Apparently Flower Power is as potent as ever.

Gear for Gstaad

As winter falls (literally) upon us, it seems there is no better time than now to address what to wear on and around the slopes. Preparations to go skiing can be daunting enough especially for the fashion-forward. So how should one suit up for slalom and what attire goes with après-ski? Thankfully, there are many diverse options.

To avoid channeling the Michelin Man make sure to purchase a Moncler down coat. With their Autumn/Winter 2009 collection the French alpine brand has crafted über-stylish glossy jackets that are fitted, elegant and surprisingly insulating. The men’s ‘Himalaya’ model is incredibly smart, versatile and available in various vibrant shades. Importantly check out the women’s ‘Virginia’ model at moncler.it. Here the durable black outer shell is quilted (not unlike a Chanel Caviar bag) whilst the billowing silver fur collar refines the look, essentially making it the coat of the season. If you plan to take the plunge and want to ski in Moncler ‘total look’, match your polished coat with the ‘Duvet’ pants. For a more sporty option, combine RLX’s ‘Camo Instructor’ pants and ‘Frontier’ jacket (at ralphlauren.com) with Prada goggles. Either way you will certainly be a shining point on the piste.

Naturally it is pivotal to choose a sophisticated location with fresh daily powder and illustrious après-ski. Gstaad certainly fits the bill as one of the most exclusive resorts on the planet (alongside Megève and Aspen) and has become a Mecca for fashionistas on skis. Stay at the world famous Gstaad Palace (palace.ch) and party at the hotel’s in-house exclusive nightclub GreenGo, a celebrity magnate. Alternatively unwind and eat at Chlösterli on the main road into town. The ambience within the 300-year-old chalet is remarkable, especially since its redecoration by the notable Parisian designer Patrick Jouin. At the restaurant make sure to try some of the traditional Swiss alpine dishes that have been handled with an exceptional modern touch.

It is imperative to remember to unwind, relax and enjoy what Gstaad has to offer. On your all-important day off make sure to grace the Gstaad Promenade, the perfect venue for Dior’s resplendent natural mink knee-length belted fur. Who said keeping warm can’t be fun?

A Missoni Mission

If you’re after quality in design, mesmerizing color combinations and exclusive patterns in the form of prêt-a-porter knits, the Milan-based family-run Fashion Empire of Missoni holds all the answers. This exclusive House, founded by Ottavio and Rosita Missoni, traces its roots to Olympian tracksuit making. Spanning three generations of designers, and with the glamorous twenty-four year old Margherita Missoni set to catapult the family business into a new dimension of the fashion stratosphere, it is clear that this brand will remain a pioneer of style.

Emphasis on breathtaking striped combinations, coming to life in the form of prints and knits, remain as relevant to fashion as in 1953, the year Missoni revealed its first collection at La Rinascente in Milan. Every season a new collection of luxurious dresses, cardigans, neckties, scarves and immensely popular beanies leave onlookers tantalized by an orgy of color and texture, demonstrating pure creative genius and downright originality. The wide range of hats, scarves and gloves make wrapping-up in winter stylish, and therefore most relevant to St. Andrews. So how does the fashionable student wear his or her latest purchase? With pride, passion and confidence as any Missoni item, when paired with simple tones, can readily convey a most capable fashion sense. At Missoni boutiques instruction as to how a garment should be worn is given upon purchase. For future reference then: a knitted hat should be worn at a slant so that only the left ear is covered while Missoni ‘Sciarpe’ should be draped in a naturally flowing manner around the neck.

The fascinating prints and striking colors never clash but mystically harmonize, a reality that perplexes me to such an extent that I find myself making comparisons to Missoni when browsing through any department store. What sets this brand apart is its ability to ooze a cool, collected recognizable ‘Missoni’ look, a look that has been fostered through amazing heritage and has proven capable of transcending the ever-evolving world of fashion. When Missoni described the winter collection as a ‘hypothetical Contemporary Art exhibition’ I thought I could smell pretense. Then I saw…and was amazed.

WHY WAXCOATS?

The wax-coat, it seems, represents the epitome of age-old British countryside-chic. Spanning the length of the Island, from the Cotswold’s to our very own St. Andrews, big spenders, gentlemen-farmers and yes, most definitely university students can be seen wearing these earthy toned coats. Yet why are these impenetrable coats, with their sticky, odd smelling layers the most coveted and worn item in St. Andrews? Ah yes, the weather. These purely British designs do defend the wearer against the notorious and continuous British meteorological tragedy especially if a warm pile lining (bought separately) is clipped ever so efficiently into the coat. However the famed wax properties make rain slide off the shoulders and torso and onto legs and shoes…if only wax-jeans existed.

One must not forget that the wax coat is a high maintenance garment; regular re-proofing must take place to avoid leakage. I often wonder; is it wrong to assume that similarities in most of the coats designs, no matter Barbour or Purdey, would be off-putting to many fashionistas? For do trendsetters not crave attention and originality by endlessly searching for and carefully selecting key pieces from significant designer’s collections? It even appears that the wax coat has become a uniform or signature look for St. Andrews students, alongside red cloaks.

For a new take on this ‘uniform’ check out the latest attractive alternatives, most notably from Barbour (barbour.com). At Barbour emphasis has been placed on revitalizing traditional styles. The current ‘heritage line’ offers fur trimmings, flattering military-esque shapes and bolder colors, a definite move away from the infamous dark greens. The renewed belted wax coats (originating from the pre-war era, initially used as motorcycle jackets) are impressive as they offer a contemporary twist on traditional designs by dividing horizontally resulting in a closer more flattering fit whilst always remaining functional.

Essentially, should we spend around two hundred pounds on a raincoat? In short yes, as this coat represents something more significant, more stylish than your average trench can ever hope to accomplish. The wax coat suggests the practical, sophisticated and classical person, someone who is not afraid to leap into a torrential wind/rain-combo sort of day and look good doing so.